Italian Meat Sauce

April 20, 2012 in Beef/Lamb, Mains, Pork

Meat sauce. Bolognese. Ragu.

Whatever you want to call it,  it’s a concoction that involves some kind of animal protein and some veggies stewed together to make a thick, yet still luxurious sauce to accompany pasta, polenta, or crusty bread.

Italian-American food differs from Italian food.  The meat sauce you are most likely familiar with is essentially ground beef and tomatoes with herbs.  That would be the typical “Italian food abroad” type, versus the Italian version which involves the addition of carrots and celery, and cream or milk.  When combined with the onion, the carrots and celery become a soffritto, which is in the same vein as a mirepoix, and even the Cajun holy trinity of onions, bell peppers, and celery.  My rendition of my sauce is closer to the original Italian version.

Meat Sauce

  • 1 lb. ground chuck (cheap cuts are the way to go.  DON’T YOU DARE USE GROUND KOBE/WAGYU.  That’s just a waste.  I hate seeing “Kobe burgers.”  It’s an insult to the cow.)
  • 1 lb. ground pork (I used a locally made mild sausage.  Check out New York Style Sausage Company)
  • 2-3 slices of bacon, pancetta, or pork belly
  • 1 onion, diced (I use a medium yellow onion)
  • 2 large carrots, diced (If you use organic, no need to peel!)
  • 3 ribs celery, diced
  • 6 cloves of garlic (why not?)
  • 1 28 oz. can of diced tomatoes (I’m a pro-canned tomatoes kind of girl when the are not in season.   I used Trader Joe’s unsalted organic canned tomatoes.)
  • 1 6 oz. can of tomato paste
  • ~2 cups of beef broth (I used my trusty organic beef Better Than Bouillon.)
  • ½ tablespoon or more of generic Italian seasoning (or twice the amount of fresh herbs like oregano, parsley, thyme)
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • salt
  • pepper
  • milk (I eyeballed it until the color was more of an orange than red.)

First, chop up your veggies.  Make sure you chop then rather fine and equally sized.

Chop up your bacon.

Heat your skillet (I used my trusty Dutch oven.) on medium-high heat.  If you’re into it, feel free to drop in your bacon.  As the pan heats, the fat on the bacon will slowly render, and then get hot enough to crisp up your bacon.

When it appears that most of the fat has been rendered, toss in your onions, carrots, and celery.  Give it a stir to coat the pieces and sauté until the onion is translucent.  Season with salt and pepper! Add in your garlic and stir.  Sauté until the garlic is fragrant.  If you have some color on your vegetables, that’s OK.  Brown = flavor.

Next, dump in your meats and cook until no longer pink.  Break up the large chunks as you go.  Don’t forget to season!

Add in the whole can of tomatoes, juice and all, as well as the beef broth.  Bring this to a boil and add in the tomato paste.  Stir to incorporate.  Turn the heat to low and simmer.  This simmer does at least two things: you are slow cooking the meat so it’s more tender; and the vegetables will break down and contribute to a thicker sauce.

I put a lid on mine for the first half of cooking, and then finished it without during the second half to reduce the sauce.  If the texture isn’t to your liking and you are running low on liquid, feel free to add in about a ½ cup at a time to help it along.  Also, when my sauce was looking more like a sauce versus chunks of things in broth, I added milk until it looked on the orange side of the rainbow.  Next time, I think I’m going to use cream to make it richer.

Once the sauce is finished, ladle it on top of freshly cooked pasta, polenta, or thick slabs of Italian bread.  If you must, add copious amount of grated parmesan (you must).

Basic Pulled Pork

April 12, 2012 in Mains, Pork

A slow cooked pork shoulder is one of my favorite roasts to make.  I’m talking FAV-O-RITE!  It’s a cut that’s incredibly versatile in itself, and when it’s slow cooked with some simple spices, it still is.  I’ve reinvented pork roast leftovers into carnitas tacos, chile verde, an Asian inspired stir-fry, an Italian ragu, and even soup!

The first thing I made with this freshly cooked roast was South Carolina barbeque inspired pulled pork, which consisted of shredded meat doused in a vinegar-mustard sauce made from the cooking liquid.  For this, I turned to my slow cooker.

Shall we?

Basic Pulled Pork:

  • 3-4 lb. pork shoulder (either boneless or bone-in works.  I used a bone-in roast.)
  • 1/2 onion, sliced thin
  • 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • salt
  • pepper
  • 2-3 bay leaves
  • brown sugar (optional)
  • paprika (optional)
  • 1/2 cup chopped coriander (optional)
  • 1/4 cup vinegar (or any cooking liquid of your choice.  I recommend vinegar/citrus because the acid helps tenderize.)

If you are paranoid about extra fat on the meat, trim it off, but DO keep some on there, as it will help keep the meat moist and flavorful.

Generously salt and pepper all surfaces of the roast.  If you are using them, also rub about 2-3 tablespoons of brown sugar and a few shakes of paprika over the roast. Set the meat aside to do a short marinade while you prep the veggies.  Slice the onions, crush the garlic.

Take your onion slices and scatter them over the bottom of the pot.  Throw in your garlic, bay leaves, and about half of your herbs.  Set the roast on top of the vegetables.  Top the roast with the remainder of the herbs and pour the vinegar over the roast.

Put the lid on it and cook it on low for 8-10 hours or high for 5-7, or until the meat falls apart easily with a fork.

When it’s done, and you’ve been salivating from the wonderful smell for at least an hour, take out the roast and let it rest for 5-10 minutes.

Proceed to SHRED.

Once you’ve shredded it, you’re basically done.  Eat it as it, or put a sauce on it.  I chose to use up the lovely porky cooking liquid and make a sauce.

South Carolina inspired sauce:

  • Whatever’s leftover in the pot (EXCEPT the bay leaves. TOSS THEM!)
  • a few tablespoons of mustard powder
  • 1/2 cup or more of vinegar
  • a touch of honey (optional)

Pour whatever you have left in a blender.  Blitz!

Add in the mustard powder, vinegar, and honey.  Blitz!

Pour into a saucepan and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.  As it’s reducing, feel free to adjust seasoning to your taste.

Plate it, and eat!

Served up with an arugula-heirloom tomato salad and potatoes au gratin:

A Simple Chicken Paella

April 11, 2012 in Mains, Poultry

Paella, paella, paella.  This ranks pretty high on my list of favorite Spanish foods.  One of these days I’m going to get a true paella pan, and then bring it on a camping trip so I can prepare it over an open fire.  Its presentation is as beautiful as the melding of saffron flavor with everything in the pan.  Mmm.

My experience with paella has been limited to restaurants and the one time appearance of the dish on a friend’s table when her boyfriend (now fiancé) made a great Spanish feast (Did I mention he’s a legit Spaniard?).  Ordering out, I always opt for either the paella marisco (read “seafood paella”) or paella mixta (read “mixed paella,” a paella with both meat and seafood).  The seafood flavor in the dish does it for me.  It’s this layer of umami that’s distinctly “fresh ocean” romance.

In the version of paella I attempted, you will find no seafood.  The only reason this happened is because I didn’t have any on hand and it was terribly windy outside.

I don’t like driving in crazy winds.

I also had four defrosted chicken thighs sitting in my fridge.  Chicken it was!

I based my paella off of an “authentic” recipe I found doing some google-ing for Chicken Paella, which you will find here.  I honestly have no idea about the level of authenticity, but the ingredient list is simple, similar to other recipes, and I had everything on hand without having to make a trip to the store.

My rendition of Paella de Pollo, serves 4 (or more, with leftovers):

  • 4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (or drumsticks, or enough chicken pieces to feed 4 people)
  • 1 yellow onion, diced
  • 1-2 cloves of garlic (however garlicky you want it)
  • 1-2 cups diced tomatoes (I used the rest of my heirloom cherry tomatoes. I’m estimating how much there actually was.)
  • 1 1/2 cups white rice (I used 2 cups, and ended up having way too much rice to fit in my pan comfortably.)
  • 3 1/2 cups chicken broth (I had used 5 cups, relative to my rice, and because my pan was filled to the brim, I didn’t get to boil off as much as I wanted in the beginning for fear of creating an epic mess.)
  • pinch of saffron
  • 1 T of paprika (because I felt it made it feel more Spanish)
  • 1/2 cup of flat leaf parsley
  • 3/4 cup peas (I used frozen.)
  • 1 red bell pepper sliced into “sticks”
  • salt, to taste
  • pepper, if you must
  • good tasting extra virgin olive oil (I used the lovely Spanish olive oil I received from a friend.)

 

First, cook the chicken.  If you are using, chicken thighs, I recommend viewing my previous post for pan-roasted chicken thighs.  Instead of finishing them in the oven, I fried them in the pan for about 12 minutes on both sides, until the juice was almost clear.  Set the chicken aside.

Drain the leftover fat, leaving about a tablespoon or two left in the pan.  Keeping the heat at a medium-high, sauté the onion, garlic, and tomatoes until the onion is translucent and the whole mess is fragrant.  Remember to season with salt!  I actually focused too much on getting pictures and not letting things burn that I completely forgot to salt the food throughout the entire process!

Add in the rice and sauté until the rice is opaque. (See my bit on sautéing rice in my Mexi-feast.)

Add in your paprika and parsley and stir.  Pour in your broth and add the saffron.  Stir.  Even out the surface of the rice and place the chicken on top.  The chicken should be partially submerged in the liquid.  This allows the pieces to finish cooking in a bit of a braise.

Bring to a boil and turn the heat down so it’s at a rapid simmer, almost boiling.  Let it go until the liquid reduces and the rice breaks through.  At this point, the rice should be about halfway cooked.  Add in your peas and CAREFULLY mix them into the rice.  It doesn’t have to be perfect, just get them mixed in so they’re not sitting on top all willy-nilly.

After a few minutes, add the red bell pepper sticks on top of everything. It’s your edible garnish, so arrange it so it also cooks evenly.  I cheated and covered this for a while, until the rice was completely done and the peppers were tender-crisp.

Since I made a total amateur mistake and forgot to salt as I went, I added generous pinches of salt at the end, and when serving.  Since I didn’t use the olive oil during the cooking process, I used it as a garnish when serving.  Just a drizzle packs a lot of flavor.

¡El fin!

 

Pan-roasted Chicken Thighs

April 10, 2012 in Mains, Poultry

Too many people are afraid of chicken skin.  Sounds absurd, right?  Thank the Lord I am NOT one of them.

Chicken skin is your friend, especially when a majority of shoppers only opt for chicken breast, the most expensive, least flavorful, and easiest to dry out section of the chicken.  According to some random chef sources I’ve collected in my recent memory, the chicken thigh is the best part of the whole bird.

Why?  First, dark meat is more forgiving than white meat.  If you leave it cook for a little bit too long, it’s okay, there’s no need to fear.  You are not likely to dry it out to inedibility.  This is due to the fat content.  Yes, dark meat is less lean than white, but it’s because those hard working leg muscles get their fuel from the purest form of food energy: fat. Which brings me to the second reason: more flavor.  Fat = flavor.  Simple.  That’s why often the worst foods TASTE. SO. GOOD.  For example, oven french fries vs. deep-fried french fries.  Admit it, there is definitely a difference.  The latter take a fantastic swim in fat and you love it.  The third reason why chicken thighs are prime is: they are cheap cheap CHEAP.  (In this context, cheap = budget-friendly.)  We like that.

So there you have it.  Chicken thighs: no-fail, tasty, and inexpensive. Have I made you a chicken thigh believer?

pan-roasted chicken thigh with sautéed arugula and steamed rice.

Pan-roasted Chicken Thighs (adapted from bon appetit):

  • bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
  • salt
  • pepper
  • olive oil

Preheat your oven to 475 °F.

Pat dry your chicken with paper towels, regular kitchen towels, whatever you have.  This removes water and allows for better browning.  This drying technique can be used for any type of meat you wish to brown in a pan.  Season both sides of the thighs generously with salt and pepper.  Don’t fear the salt.  This is the only seasoning you’ll do to the meat.

Heat about 1 tablespoon of olive oil in an oven-safe skillet on medium high. (I used my dutch oven.)  The olive oil just jump starts the cooking process.

When the oil is “shimmering” or “rippling” (right before it starts smoking, which is something you don’t want to happen), place the chicken in the pan skin side down and let cook for 10-12 minutes.  At about the halfway point, feel free to move them around in the pan for even cooking.  Also, feel free to turn the heat down to medium if it’s starting to burn or you feel uneasy about it.  It just means you’ll have to cook it a little bit longer.  This session of one side frying allows for the chicken to render fat and crisps up the skin.  After 12 minutes, you should get some pretty good browning.  CAREFULLY transfer the skillet to the preheated oven and cook for another 10-12 minutes.  Flip the chicken skin side up, and cook for about 5-8 minutes or when juices run clear.  Remove from oven and set the chicken on a plate to rest for about 5 minutes.  This resting period allows the juices to redistribute and for the chicken to cool down enough to eat.  Serve.

pan-roasted chicken thigh with melted herbed butter, roasted baby red potatoes, and green peas.

Mexi-feast! Guacamole, Beans, Rice, and Carnitas

April 9, 2012 in Mains, Pork, Sides, Starters, Vegetable

The amount of Mexican food I ingest has increased exponentially ever since I relocated to the west coast.  I’ll take a burrito over a sandwich any day, and I’ll take carnitas over anything else to stuff into a warm tortilla.  When I make a mexi-feast at home, I’ll go for the typical plate of rice, beans, guacamole salad, and meat served with tortillas on the side.  I’ll take you through my average mexi-feast preparations that curb that craving for more bang to the buck.

Guacamole!

West coast living has spoiled me with the availability of avocados.  I remember ordering guacamole at a non-chain Mexican restaurant in Ohio for the first time since I had moved west.  It was truly one of the most disgusting things I had tasted called guacamole.  For this travesty, I didn’t blame the maker/restaurant too much, but mostly on the fact that it was December.  In Ohio.  Avocados aren’t as widely available as the sunnier states, and it definitely showed.  Word to the wise: only order guacamole in the Midwest if you see tons of avocados in your local grocery.

For this extremely simple guacamole you’ll need:

  • two or three ripe avocados
  • a clove or two of garlic
  • 1/4 cup chopped onion
  • lime juice (1-2 limes)
  • salt, to taste

Scrap out the flesh of the avocado into a bowl, and start mashing it with a fork.  When it looks mostly broken down, mix in everything else.  Adjust lime juice and add salt to taste.

To my final product, I actually added 1/4 cup of plain yogurt to stretch it out a little bit and to also experiment with the tangy taste.  It ended up being creamier and the yogurt tang added to the sourness of the lime, which was an OK move in my mind.

Voila!

Beans!

Budgeting has made me a dried bean believer!  Canned beans are small compact tins of highway robbery, so I try to keep a stock of dried pinto beans, chickpeas, and lentils in my cupboard at all times, ESPECIALLY lentils. (Lentils can be a cheap, healthy, and quick meal fix, like my Lentil Soup.)

With a little planning (one day before you plan to eat them) you can have homemade low sodium legumes to go in a soup, stew, or on their own.  Essentially, before you go to bed, soak your beans in the fridge.  When you get up the next morning, put them in a slow cooker and cook on low all day while you’re out and about.

For soaking, you’ll need:

  • beans
  • water (enough to cover your amount of beans by 3 inches)

First, rinse your beans.  You don’t really want to cook them with the dirt or dust that follows them wherever they go prior to your purchase.  Pick out any that look irregular.  Or just leave them.  I do.

Put then in a bowl and cover with enough water to put them under about 3 inches of water.  Set the beans  in the fridge overnight.

The next day, take your beans out and drain.  You don’t want to cook the beans in their soaking liquid.  Soaking actually helps remove the gassy properties of the beans.  True story.

The actual cooking of beans, you’ll need:

  • your soaked beans
  • water or broth
  • yellow onion
  • a couple of garlic cloves
  • a few bay leaves
  • 1/4 teaspoon cumin (optional)
  • bacon, salt pork, ham hock, something porky (optional, but highly recommended)

Slice your onion thinly, crush your garlic, chop your bacon, and toss them into the crock pot.  Add your bay leaves and dump in your beans.  Add your cumin, salt, whatever other seasonings.  Pour in enough liquid (water or broth) to cover your beans by about an inch or two.  Plug in your slow cooker and set it to low.  After about 8-10 hours, your beans will be cooked!

I added too much water when I cooked this batch, so I transferred them to a saucepan to reduce the liquid.

Rice!

Mexican rice is ridiculously easy.  Years ago, the fluffy loose texture was a tough nut to crack.  I always ended up with something along the lines of tomato steamed rice.  Then I discovered if I treated it like a rice pilaf, then my ideal would be much more attainable, and it was!

You’ll need:

  • 1 1/2 cups long grain white rice (I use jasmine for everything because I buy it 25 pounds at a time.)
  • olive oil
  • 2 cups chicken broth
  • 1 cup water + 3-4 tablespoons tomato paste*
  • oregano (optional)
  • cilantro (optional)

*Can be substituted with one cup of tomato sauce.

Heat about 2 (chef’s) tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet (with a tight fitting lid) on medium-high heat. While that is heating up, thin your tomato paste in the cup of water and set aside. When the oil is hot, pour in the rice and give it a stir to coat the grains with oil.

Every minute or so, give it a stir.  I personally like to do the shake, dip, and flip, because it makes me feel like a pro.  Sauté the rice until it looks opaque.

Pour in the chicken broth and thinned tomato paste.  Pour it over the rice, and NOT directly on the pan.  This will most likely immediately boil and steam and be loud, so it may or may not scare you.  Stir it around.

If you’re using dried herbs, toss them in now, if not, ignore.  Bring the rice to a boil, cover, then set to low to simmer for about 20-30 minutes or until the rice is cooked through.  After it’s finished, I normally let it keep going until some rice sticks to the bottom and I have to scrape up some lightly crisped rice.  Then I know that all of the liquid has been absorbed.

If you’re using fresh herbs, chop them finely, and stir them in as soon as the rice is finished.

The main event: carnitas!

Carnitas are like a gift from heaven.  A once mystifying delicacy that is, well, I guess, still mystifying, but in a different way.  Instead of “how do they?” it’s more like “how does it?”  Pork + salt + water + citrus + low and slow braise + unknown supernatural occurrence (which is probably frying in fat) = Carnitas!

You’ll need:

  • 3-4 pound boneless pork shoulder, fat NOT trimmed
  • salt
  • lime juice
  • water

Feel free to salt and marinade the shoulder overnight in lime juice.  Feel free to not.  If you don’t, DO rub the shoulder with a generous amount of salt and fresh squeezed lime juice.

The method of cooking is braising, the means is up to you.  If you want to do it in a slow cooker, put the meat in the pot and add enough liquid to just come up the side of the meat by an inch.  Use water, more lime juice, or orange juice.  Cook it on low for 8-10 hours or high for 4-6.  When it’s done (falling apart at the slightest touch of a fork), transfer to a deep skillet.  If you want to do it in a dutch oven, put the meat in the pot and add enough liquid to just come up the side of the meat by an inch.  Preheat your oven to 300.  On the stove, heat is up until you have an almost boiling, put the lid on, then turn the heat down so it simmers.  As soon as your oven is preheated, VERY CAREFULLY pick up the heavy pot and transfer it to the middle rack of the oven (or whatever rack so that it fits).  Set a timer for 2 1/2-3 hours.  When the meat is fall apart tender, take it out an put it back on the stove.

Depending on how much liquid is still there, you can either dump out most of it, or let it simmer, lid off, until it evaporates out.  It’s up to you.  I let it evaporate out until it looks like all that is left is melted fat.

Then let it keep cooking until all the liquid is fat.  Then turn the heat up to medium and start the frying process.

Getting some crispiness and color!

I start to see more smoke than I’d like and decide to call it done.

Eat!

After all of these things are prepared, it’s time to put them together and feast!